July 25, 2009
If there was nothing in the water but the corals, it would still be a spectacular sight...perhaps the most impressive is the table top corals that are more twice as wide as we are tall. However for me, the magic is in the creatures that maneuver through and around the corals. I'm a huge "Finding Nemo" fan but watching little fish swim through staghorn corals in real life is infinitely better than watching it on a big screen. I could follow the activity in staghorn corals for several hours alone but I find the larger animals to be even more impressive. I've always loved sea turtles and practically squeel with excitement at every sighting. If the tides hadn't forced us to leave Tortegonias this morning, I would have tried to follow one for hours. While I'm not so keen about black tip and white tip sharks becoming too friendly with me, from a safe distance it's marvelous to watch them. Perhaps the highlight of today's snorkel was the chance to finally swim with a manta. Everytime we see one from a lagoon boat, Chris mourns the fact that we don't keep snorkels and masks on hand but today we were already in the water. Gliding smoothly through the water, mantas are one of the most majestic animals I've seen and it was magical to swim alongside one.
One other notable sight, though not living, was the longliner wreck. As Hillary told us, the ship belonged to Koreans who purposefully wrecked it in US waters under the belief that they'd be able to stay in America if their ship wrecked. Unfortunately for them, they were misinformed and got sent home. Meanwhile the ship has begun to leech iron into the water and has become somewhat of an environmental burden. Burden or not, it is still a sight to behold. This massive rusted ship is full of dark windows into it's murky interior. Whether or not real danger lurks inside, one can't shake the feeling that a tiger shark is just waiting for curious prey to swim by. In other words, I was glad to see it, but also glad to move on to our next snorkel site.
Lest you get the idea that our time here has turned entirely to fun and games, let me assure you that several projects have consumed most of our time over the past few days. Some of my favorites have included collecting feathers from boobies, tropic birds and frigates with Hillary (though the first tropic bird I saw didn't yield many feathers, it was the most adorable ball of fuzz I've ever seen) and taking tissue samples from groupers with Doug.
I think I speak for all of us when I say this has been a whirlwind experience thus far and it's hard to believe how little time we have left to take in everything that makes Palmyra so unique.
-Tessaly
July 24, 2009
We went snorkeling this morning!
July 22, 2009
What is the largest thing imaginable that you never tire to behold? A starry night sky, of course!
Since we’ve arrived here the moon has been rising several hours after sunset. Although beautiful in itself, I cherish the time before the silver orb peeks above the palm frawns for its light obliterates a view of the stars as stunning as it must have been to the first of mankind. It is not only the sheer number or stars that is so awe-inspiring; the velvety blackness in between is equally striking. It can be hard to make out the constellations since all the stars are so bright but I’ve been able to find all the constellations on the star map given to me by family friends before departing. Last night we had a clear sky and a new moon. We were relived from lab work that night so Chris, Nick and I wandered to North Beach to gaze at the stars. We attempted to sleep out on the beach but I don’t think any of us were very successful. Its hard to close your eyes when the milky way is wrapped across the firmament demanding adoration and hard to tune out the crashing of the waves and the screeching of the sooty terns; sounds that have been here millennia before the first human ear perceived them. I always wondered how early civilizations were able to gain such a sophisticated understanding of the motion of heavenly bodies. How the planets were distinguished from stars always puzzled me but as Nick pointed out, after several nights of stargazing the planets become obvious. We just never take the time to look anymore. The main reason is probably that in many places there isn’t much to look at anymore due to light and chemical pollution.
This is the perpetual theme of Palmyra: It is a place from another time, a time before we entered the anthropocene. Although it utterly new to me it provides a powerful feeling of being at home, a feeling of proximity to the sprit of our early human ancestry.
July 19, 2009
Finally! The Manta Ray Way...
In that case, let me get started! The last ten days have been absolutely INSANE! I've soared with manta rays, spun iradescent webs of galaxy with my feet, seen 1,000s of dolphins, yes, thousands, watched the sky slowly burst into morning flames, single handedly forced the ocean to boil for acres, played with hundreds of sharks, and all around had some of the most amazing experiences of my life. Let me explain...
Four of my last ten nights have been spent on a small 14-foot outboard motor boat, continually tracking a single manta ray to monitor its behavior and movement patterns. If you're wondering what exactly a manta ray is, as I originally was, click here. Or, feel comforted that these are some of the most beautiful creatures I've witnessed. These rays normally range between 5-10 feet wide (that's HUGE!) and glide slowly through the sea, softly escorting invisible plankton into their gaping mouths. After following these big fellas for a while I have a favor to ask of you all; whenever someone drops the rare phrase, "Let's take the scenic route," I want you to respond, "You mean the Manta Ray Way, right?" I know, I know, lame right? But utterly true. These giant creatures have not a hurry in the world as they peacefully glide through the sea, spinning gorgeous barrel rolls and traversing steep cliffs to corral plankton.
While following the mantas through wind, rain, and all out stormy hell, invisible phytoplankton blink neon green around your boat, like lightning bugs of the sea. They weave constellations and galaxies as they gush out of the motor, or if walking on shallow flats, they duly shimmer, a little stunned at the weight of your fat feet. The best part: you can never take a photo of them, they cease to exist if you try. Any light overpowers their impressive iradescence. And if these guys aren't enough, at the end of the night you often get to see the sky split into fire, splashing flames into the sea.
One particular day, after tracking manta rays all night, I stepped off the small boat onto a slightly larger boat for all day shark tagging, preparing myself for the most insane 36 hour marathon of wakefulness in my life. This second journey consisted of boating with thousands of bottlenose dolphins, spinner dolphins, and melon headed whales, along with trains of fifteen+ mantas. The spinner dolphins often launched so high in front of the boat we had to alert NASA...
July 12, 2009
Success!
July 10, 2009
Dave Wahl, a paleoclimatology researcher from Berkeley, came on the plane a few days ago with the new staff, and he has been working with Hillary, Ellery, Marra, and I over the last two days as we built and tested a drilling platform for the middle of the lagoon. We designed the platform to hold a 10 foot tripod, sediment drill, and five people over the deepest part of the western lagoon. It's 12 feet long and 16 feet wide with a hole in the middle for the drill and it floats on gigantic 20 foot styrofoam pontoons we found out behind the workshop.
We're sampling the silty bottom 50 meters below the surface of the water. The goal is to get several 3 or 6 meter long cores of sediment that hopefully will go back 2,500 years in order to search for coconut palm pollen grains. We think the trees may have been introduced here by Polynesians in the relatively recent past (via Fanning Island) and we're trying to pinpoint the time the trees first arrived in Palmyra.
We built the platform in only a few hours yesterday and spent the rest of the time installing the luxury items (an elevated shade tarp and a few comfy lawn chairs) and anchoring and testing the platform. While we were situating the drill this afternoon, I volunteered for the somewhat unsettling job of snorkeling down through the murky water and double-checking the tip. Right before jumping in, Hillary reminded me that, "There are sharks down there, you just can't see them, and there are probably tiger sharks around, so try not to splash around too much." She assured me I had a "high chance of being alright," and then I hopped in. I spent about fifteen minutes in the water diving down to 10 feet and guiding the tip of the drill, and the whole time I was waiting for some big looming shadow to materialize out of the green-tinted waters all around me. All went well until I was back on the platform with my head in the water tieing off the last knots, and a big looming shadow did materialize out of the murk! And it turned out to be Dave Wahl swimming at me from under the other side of the raft with a video camera strapped to his head. In initial fright, I screamed something explicit through my snorkel. I'm sure the video is priceless!
We haven't gotten a sediment core yet, but we did pull up a small practice sample. The sediment down there is super fine and has the exact consistency as toothpaste. We joked that if it didn't smell like hard-boiled eggs, it would make a great face mask at the spa.
Hopefully we will get a few cores tomorrow. Until then, adieu.
July 9, 2009
I hope you enjoy haikus
Here's a series of them
My name is Marra
Rising Earth Systems senior
I study oceans
I love the outdoors
The land, the sea, and the sky
And that's why I'm here
Our group is lucky
Few people ever come here
And yet here we are
In the news today
Pollen cores and tagging sharks
Very exciting
And the best part is
That these projects will go on
For several days
Information on
Vegetation history
Comes from pollen cores
Movement patterns and
Feeding habits and pop. size
That's why we tag sharks
Excitement tonight
The manta ray team is out
Tracking with sonar
So in a nutshell
Science is so much fun and
It's amazing here
That's all for tonight
Hope you are all doing well
Goodnight, everyone
Who's that goofy kid?
July 7, 2009
Half a Day Off in Paradise
But now it's bed time, and sleep must not wait! Hopefully I will have time to describe my sights, or perhaps better, I will leave you to create your own water wonderland.
July 6, 2009
The supplies have arrived!
July 5, 2009
4th of July calls for celebration!
Before I talk about our festivities for the holiday, I'll briefly introduce myself. I'm Tessaly and like Nick I'm an Earth Systems major. I feel lucky to have happened upon and been given this amazing opportunity. I walked into the Earth Systems office one day, frantic about finding a summer job/internship and someone suggested looking at the Biology Department's field studies website. I found the blog from last year's Palmyra crew and was astounded by their pictures and stories...and then even more astounded when I found out a few months later that I'd be taking my own pictures and creating my own stories here.
I could say we work hard here but I can't complain considering that everytime I look up I see this beautiful atoll surrounding me. Still, it was nice to get off a bit early tonight to partake in some 4th of July celebrations. The station's staff prepared a traditional American dinner and festivities afterward. The nights "opening ceremonies" included a flare and smoke signal show which led into games and prizes (bouncing basketballs into buckets and hitting balloons with darts to win things like fashionable foam flower bras, dracula capes and fake mustaches). The night ended with a bonfire under the cloudy moonlit sky and a run down the beach with flaming flares. Not your traditional 4th of July fireworks but surely a memorable night!
-Tessaly
July 3, 2009
Two Days Before the Manta
I will try to give an impression of how the night passed in our little lagoon boat, and I believe Eva will do the same for the daylight hours:
It's 1 AM and raining. The blue tarp strung above me flaps violently in the wind, the waves beneath our boat slap against the fiberglass, and the rain patters all around as I curl up with damp towels trying to catch a wink of sleep before my next shift. The night is fresh, and we are tracking a tagged manta ray in the moonlit waters of the eastern lagoon. Doug is at the helm, somehow using his two hands and tired body to work a hydrophone, steer the boat, avoid the rock ledges that line the lagoon, record data, and hide from the periodic and sudden showers of rain that frequent these latitudes.
Doug calls in on the radio to let them know all is well, and I rise from fitful sleep and strange dreams to assume my post till morning. The manta has been slowly pacing the same ledges all night and making long and lazy lines along the same miles of coastline since we started tracking two days ago. I grab the handle of the hydrophone in one hand and the throttle of the motor in the other and situate the headphones over my ears. The incessant sharp yellow pings of the sonar punctuate the passing moments, and somehow they remind my tired brain of sharp cheddar cheese. Half-delirious, I locate the manta and edge slowly towards the signal, stooping soon to record the 1:05 AM position.
Closer now to the channel, the tides pull strongly across the tidal flats in front of me, and a brisk offshore breeze keeps me well off the rocks as I take the 1:10 AM position. The clouds race by from the east above me, carried swiftly along by the trade winds. A planet – either Jupiter or Venus – is rising over palm-tufted Whippoorwill Island.
The night passes slowly and I watch the moon, stars, and planets dance across the sky. Part of me is occupied with the tasks at hand, part of me thinks “What have I gotten myself into?” and yet another part marvels at the quiet beauty and elegance of this place at night.
-Nick
Exhausted but Exhilarated!
July 1, 2009
Day One: What a lively place!
My name is Nick Wenner, and I am writing the blog after our first day at work on Palmyra.
Here are a few important things about myself:
I like nectarines.
I like the feel of rain on my back when I'm floating in a hottub.
I feel bad hanging up on telemarketers.
I aspire one day to visit the deep sea.
I wonder what happens to balloons after you let them go.
I am an Earth Systems major at Stanford (our version of environmental science), and I am working at Palmyra this summer (officially) to complete an internship. Unofficially, I am here to see thousands of seabirds, coral reefs, sharks, and manta rays. Manta rays! In general, I intend to bask in the glory of this amazing lively place.
This first thing I noticed upon arriving on Palmyra was how many creatures I found around me. As we walked on the dirt road from the runway, meaty hermitcrabs scuttled clumsily on their way and thick ferns lapped at the edges of the road. As I peered over the edge of the dock with my nose almost touching the water, dozens of delicate shrimp hovered in the water below me, their slender antennae and attentive eyes tracking my every move. Everywhere I looked I found charismatic organisms - and lots of them - living their own beautiful and unique lives.
This Homo sapiens' life has been beautiful and unique lately as well. Today, our group split up and worked throughout the entire atoll and saw many of its natural attractions. I worked on a three-person team hiking across the southern coasts of the atoll setting insect traps, and as we crawled through underbrush and waded across the shallow lagoons linking the many small islands that make up this atoll, we found beetles, nesting boobies, pufferfish, and ghost crabs. Ten or more black tip reef sharks cruised in packs in the shallows of Kaula Island, forcing schools of very oppressed looking reef fish into the rubble at our feet! We saw baby black tips - no more than 16 inches long - and several large jacks feeding on bait fish in the inner lagoon. All this and a beautiful blue sky broken only by refreshing squalls of rain, undisturbed white sand, and the impressive roaring thunder of waves on the outer break: This is a nice place to be.
Sadly, I have no pictures to share today. We spent the day digging holes, crawling through brush, and wading through lagoons, and it was very wet, sandy, and dirty: No place for a camera! I am very excited to practice my wildlife photography, however, and I will hopefully be adding many shots in my posts to come. I hope to share with you some of the beauty of this place and its inhabitants.
Until then, goodbye!
Nick
P.S. Hi Mom and Dad!